By Paris Men’s Fashion Week for the Spring-Summer 2025 collections was a standout event, not just for its fashion but also for its timing and context. Moved up to accommodate the Summer Olympics and amidst political unrest due to a snap election, the shows became platforms for designers to make bold statements.
American designers, in particular, used their collections to comment on current global issues. Rick Owens showcased a nearly all-white collection at the Palais de Tokyo, dubbing his models the “White Satin Army of Love” and calling for unity in times of peak intolerance.
A$AP Rocky made his Paris Fashion Week debut with a secret show titled “American Sabotage,” held in Karl Lagerfeld’s former mansion. The presentation featured antiwar symbolism and models draped in American eagle flags, with Rocky declaring his label a movement where “art meets activism.”
Pharrell’s fourth show for Louis Vuitton featured military-inspired “damoflage,” blending camouflage with the brand’s signature checkerboard pattern. The show at UNESCO headquarters included cartography graphics and military berets, hinting at themes of travel and international diplomacy.
KidSuper’s show featured giant marionette hands, with designer Colm Dillane exploring themes of interconnectedness and autonomy. The collection invited audiences to reflect on the unseen forces shaping our world.
Subcultures were also a highlight, with German magazine 032C presenting techno couture reminiscent of Berlin’s nightlife. Junya Watanabe mixed tartan and heavy metal, while Doublet combined club-kid aesthetics with suiting.
Queer fashion label Jeanne Friot showcased feather-adorned denim and belt bandeau skirts crafted from deadstock, challenging gender norms and offering new expressions for menswear.
Comme des Garçons played with gender distinctions through bright fuchsia tailoring and skirt pants, while Sacai brought experimental couture to everyday wear with skirts-shorts and layered suits. Taakk presented romantic lines and sheer shirts, and Etudes Studio drew inspiration from artists like Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat.
The week concluded with Dries Van Noten’s final show, his 150th collection, which was a celebration of his 38-year career. The collection, full of shimmer and light, received a standing ovation, marking a poignant farewell for the Belgian designer.
This season’s Paris Men’s Fashion Week was a fusion of fashion, politics, and culture, leaving a lasting impression on the industry and its spectators.
