All Aboard! The Boat Shoe’s Unlikely Return to Land

All Aboard! The Boat Shoe’s Unlikely Return to Land

In a surprising twist, boat shoes, once the staple of seaside strolls and yacht decks, have made a significant comeback. Their revival has extended far beyond the coastal enclaves of the rich and famous, landing firmly on the streets and public transport systems of cities worldwide.

From Catwalks to Sidewalks

The resurgence of boat shoes can be traced back to high fashion. Miu Miu, the prestigious label helmed by Miuccia Prada, prominently featured boat shoes in its spring/summer collection. This move, coupled with their considerable influence, sparked a renewed interest in the footwear. Depop, a popular resale app, reported a 39% increase in searches for boat shoes last month, with brands like Timberland and Sebago seeing a surge in popularity. Prices on the app range from £12 to £90, a far cry from Miu Miu’s £660 designer versions.

Other luxury brands have also embraced the trend. Loewe showcased some distinctive boat shoes in its autumn/winter lineup, and Aimé Leon Dore’s latest campaign featured Arsenal player Declan Rice sporting boat shoes with white socks, further cementing their status as a fashionable choice.

A Nod to Nostalgia

This resurgence is part of a broader trend towards preppy and classic styles. References to iconic figures like JFK in Hyannis and contemporary influencers such as Emma Chamberlain underscore this shift. The original Gossip Girl series and the Ivy League aesthetic also contribute to this nostalgic revival.

Boat shoes have long symbolized preppy style in the US, often paired with polo shirts and chinos by the yacht-owning elite. The Official Preppy Handbook by Lisa Birnbach even emphasized the importance of the right footwear, with Sperry Top-Siders being the quintessential choice. Similarly, in the UK, boat shoes were a part of the Sloane Ranger look in the 1980s, associated with upper-class lifestyles and signaling a certain disdain for urban living despite residing in it.

The Evolution of Boat Shoes

The design of boat shoes dates back nearly a century. Paul Sperry, a sailor, created the Sperry Top-Sider in 1935 after an incident where he slipped on his boat and noticed his dog could walk on ice without slipping. He mimicked the texture of his dog’s paws on the soles of his shoes, providing better grip on wet surfaces. This innovation led to the creation of the iconic boat shoe, with brands like Sebago, GH Bass, and Timberland following suit.

A Modern Twist

Today’s boat shoe wearers are far from the traditional demographic. The “old money aesthetic” popularized on TikTok plays a significant role in their revival. This trend focuses on classic, discreet designs that echo the understated elegance of the wealthy. Jason Jules, author of Black Ivy, highlights how this style, reminiscent of the Ivy Look worn by Black Americans in the 1950s and 60s, resonates with contemporary fashion sensibilities.

The boat shoe’s journey from niche nautical footwear to mainstream fashion staple underscores a broader trend of revisiting and reinterpreting classic styles. As they continue to appear in urban environments, it’s clear that boat shoes have successfully navigated their way into the hearts (and onto the feet) of a new generation.

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